sábado, 15 de agosto de 2009

SP500 Breadth Arc Divergences Signals

SP500 Breadth Arc Divergences Signals: "

I wanted to show two quick charts of the internal S&P 500, highlighting a “Rounded Arc” formation along with a view of a potentially significant negative Breadth divergence at the highs.  Let’s take a look.

First, the 30-min chart with 3/10 Oscillator “Momentum” Divergences and Arc Pattern:

(Click for full-size image)

You can almost draw a full arc on the 3/10 Oscillator peaks as well, which forecast an arc prior to it happening.

Now, the oscillator is making new momentum lows, and the peaks in the oscillator are forming lower highs as price formed higher highs - that’s the sign of a classic non-confirmation which can be a bearish signal.

The fact that price is forming a clean ‘arc’ pattern also has bearish implications, given that arcs represent a gentle transfer from demand (buyers) to supply (sellers).

The expectation is that the arc formation has already, or will peak soon, and price will follow the arc now to the downside.

Let’s take a deeper look at market internals to see if we’re getting a similar picture.

Here is a 30-min chart of internal “Breadth”:

The lower pane ‘indicator’ is actually a symbol - $ADD - which stands for “Advance/Decline Difference” (or the difference between NYSE advancing stocks minus NYSE Declining stocks) drawn as a line chart.

We see that breadth made a new high near July 15th with price at 930, though price has peaked at 1,018, breath has formed a series of lower peaks, which also lock in a non-confirmation or divergence just like the momentum oscillator.

The breadth divergence is more ‘important’ or significant than the momentum oscillator, because the momentum oscillator is price-based.

The implication is quite bearish, given that the S&P 500 is hovering beneath critical resistance at the 1,007 level as well as the 38.2% major Fibonacci level at 1,014.

Should price break above 1,020 solidly, it would disconfirm (overrule) these divergences, but until that happens - and it could - we have to assume resistance will hold and that the divergences will play out as they have so many times in the past.  This concept of ‘non-confirmation’ dates back to Dow Theory!

I describe these patterns in further detail to subscribers of the Idealized Trades and also this week’s Intermarket Technical Report, which will be released Sunday evening.

Stop-loss levels would be small compared to the targets in the event that markets inflect off critical turning points as described above.

Markets are at potential critical turning points - don’t get caught off guard!

Corey Rosenbloom, CMT


A Look at the Dow -- Week Ending 8/14

A Look at the Dow -- Week Ending 8/14: "

(click on the yellow bar to enlarge the image)


Happy Trading

sexta-feira, 14 de agosto de 2009

Photo 101: Answer Time

Photo 101: Answer Time: "
Photo 101 Questions & Answers

Photo: Rainer Ebert - CC license

The following post is from Australian photographer Neil Creek who is running a photo studio in The Melbourne Anime Festival convention on the 21st-23rd of this month, and is developing his blog as a resource for the passionate photographer.

Over the past few months, I have been running this class to introduce readers to the fundamentals of the camera: the physics behind it all, how lenses and optics work, the mechanics of the camera and how to set and determine a photo’s exposure. I’ve tried to cover the basics of the camera, but I’m sure there are lots of questions that have gone unanswered.

Here’s What We’ve Covered Previously in this Series:

Lesson 1: Light and the Pinhole Camera

Lesson 2: Lenses and Focus

Lesson 3: Lenses, Light and Magnification

Lesson 4: Exposure and Stops

Lesson 5: Aperture

Lesson 6: Shutter

Lesson 7: ISO

Lesson 8: Light Meter

Last time I threw the floor open to readers to ask questions on the topic of “A basic course on the camera”. There were many takers, and the topics covered were a lot broader than the original topic! Rather than pick out just a handful of questions, I’ve decided to try and answer most of them with brevity and accuracy. I haven’t answered every question, and there may be better or more detailed answers to the ones I have. I encourage other readers to add their own thoughts via the comments.

I would also like to thank reader Eric Carson who offered his own answers to many of the questions submitted. You can read his thoughts in the comments on the previous post.

Below I have paraphrased each question to get to the core, but you can read each question in full by clicking on the reader’s name. You will be taken to their comment on the previous post.


Zooming in on Flinders St Station, NYE 2006

Q1. Suresh: Is there a way to decrease the light getting into the camera when you’re at the minimum aperture, but want a slow shutter speed for creative effect?

A1: In these cases, you are best using a neutral density filter. It blocks light in a controlled way without affecting the colour. You can also do this to a lesser degree with a polarising filter.

Q2. Peter: How can I best shoot a couple who have very different skin tones without running into trouble?

A2: The average difference in skin tones is well within the exposure range that a DSLR can effectively capture. If you light well enough for the dark skinned individual, then the fair skinned individual should still be correctly exposed. You can tweak this with exposure compensation.

Q3. Jason Rosenberg: What’s the best way to get good sharpness, contrast and saturation in-camera?

A3: This is a complex question as each is different, but the most important factors for each are: sharpness - ensure accurate focus and eliminate motion blur with a fast shutter; contrast - avoid lens flare with a hood and keeping direct light off the lens; saturation - you are mostly at the mercy of the elements but slightly under exposing and effective use of a polarising filter can both help.

Q4. Danferno: People often say they don’t want to put a cheap UV filter on an expensive lens, because it would ruin the quality. Is that true?

A4: This is a fairly subjective question. I feel that the added two optical surfaces of the UV filter (front and back) increase the risk of flare and reduce contrast/sharpness enough to prefer not to use them.

Q5. Reznor, Peter, Shaun and Martin Barabe: A flash photography 101 series?

A5: It’s hard to imagine anyone being able to do a better job on this subject than David Hobby at http://strobist.com. I recommend reading his Lighting 101 and Lighting 102 courses.

Q6. Phil: What is meant by the terms “elements” and “groups” in lens descriptions, such as “16 elements in 12 groups”?

A6: As hinted at in Lessons 2 and 3 on lenses, the actual optics in most camera lenses is very complex. To provide accurate zoom, focusing, colour and other critical functions a series of lenses are used. Inside the bodies of DSLR lenses are a series of a few or many lenses, each piece of glass being referred to as an “element”. Sometimes, these elements are actually physically glued together into doublets, triplets or more. These are called “groups”. The elements count includes all of the lenses in any groups in the lens.


Q7. Krystle: How can I get correctly exposed photos of fast moving sports in dimly lit stadiums?

A7: This is one of the most challenging problems in photography. You’re working at the limits of the camera and lens’ abilities. You can increase the ISO as you mentioned, and opening up the aperture as wide as possible will help, but beyond that, the best thing you can do is get more light into the camera. You need a very “fast” lens to do this, with a large diameter front element. These lenses are very expensive, and are the kind you see in the media pit at sporting events. On a more accessible budget, your best alternative is to look into the possibility of adding light with a flash. This is a complex issue in itself and may be frowned upon at certain venues. I recommend reading the aforementioned Strobist.com lighting series.

Q8. Raheel: What are recommended settings and techniques for capturing lightning?

A8: At night or in the evening, set to f8 or thereabouts, 100ISO, use a remote shutter release and tripod. Focus on the most remote thing in your scene and open the shutter. Wait for a lightning strike, and then close the shutter. If there is any light about, you may need to limit yourself to 30second or shorter photos. If you capture any lightning look at the result and if the bolt is too bright, or dark, close or open your aperture respectively. If the sky is too light or dark, decrease or increase your shutter time respectively.

Daylight lightning is much harder to capture as you are limited to far shorter exposure times to prevent blowing out the photo. Try using a narrow aperture, a neutral density filter or polarising filter. In both situations, day or night, keep taking photos constantly as long as the lightning is around.

Q9. Renj: I am experiencing severe flaring on one side of my photos, why and how can I prevent it?

A9: Usually problems with flaring are as a result of shooting with a very bright object in, or just outside the edge of the frame. Try and shade the lens to prevent flaring. However in your case, since the flaring is consistent and from the same position in each shot, it sounds to me more like you may have a light leak in your camera. Check it for damage, and make sure the lens is correctly mounted. If you still have problems, take the camera and example photos to a camera repair store.

Q10. Carrie Alfaro: I have some photos taken with low resolution. They look terrible when printed. How can I increase the resolution to improve them?

A10: I’m afraid that once the images are in low resolution there is nothing you can do to increase the resolution. You may be able to upscale and sharpen the images slightly in image processing software, but they’ll never be as good as images taken at high resolution to start with. I recommend using the highest resolution your camera can take. You can always downsize images that are too big. You can’t really do the reverse.


Q11. Robert: What are the best settings to photograph the moon?

A11: It depends on the phase of the moon, the clarity of the air and other factors, but I have had success shooting with settings similar to the following: f11, 1/200sec, ISO100. Zoom in as far as you can, put the camera on a tripod and use a self timer or remote shutter to minimise the effect of camera shake. Take your photo, look at the result and adjust. I’d recommend increasing your shutter speed if it is too bright, and opening your aperture if it is too dark, up to about f8. Beyond f8, I’d recommend increasing the ISO.

Q12. Karese: What is the best way to photograph objects in display cases or museum displays behind glass and in low light?

A12: You may not have the option to try all these suggestions in a busy museum, but try and do what you can. To shoot with low light and no artificial light, put the camera on a tripod and use longer exposures. To avoid reflections, hold a large black sheet or card behind the camera from where you can see the reflections coming. A polarising lens may also help to reduce reflections.

Q13. Dave Williams: I would like some advice on flash sync speed.

A13: I’m sorry Dave, but flash sync speed is a topic I’m not familiar enough with to give you decisive answers. I would recommend you search for an answer to your questions at http://strobist.com My apologies for not being able to offer more help than that.

Q14. Ajith: My lens says the aperture is f4-5.6, yet I can set the aperture to f11. How is this possible?

A14: The aperture range described on your lens is not the range of apertures that your lens is able to use. Rather it is the range of maximum aperture settings it can use at various zoom lengths. Zoom lenses offer a range of focal lengths, but changing the focal length usually also changes the aperture. At longer focal lengths, zoom lenses are typically not able to achieve as wide an aperture setting as they are at shorter focal lengths. Your lens can go to f4 when it is at its widest and 5.6 when it is at its longest. Some very expensive high-end lenses are able to achieve a long focal range, with maintaining a fixed aperture, such as the popular 70-200mm f2.8.

In Conclusion


This post concludes the Photography 101 series, A Basic Course on the Camera. I hope that you have enjoyed the lessons, and now have a better understanding of how your camera works, why it’s important to learn about the camera, and are already seeing an improvement in your photography as a result.

If you have enjoyed the series and want more, fear not, this is not the last you will see of Photo 101. I am working on a secret project related to Photo 101, and hopefully will be able to reveal it to you all soon. Keep watching Digital Photography School for news.

Going forward I would like to start a new series in the near future, Photography 102 - A Basic Course on Taking Photos. In this course I plan to look at photographic technique, and applying the lessons we have learned in Photography 101. It will be a more practical course, and will aim to help you improve your photography by providing instructions, tips and techniques for a variety of real-world settings.

Until then, class dismissed! :)

Post from: Digital Photography School - Photography Tips.

Photo 101: Answer Time


quinta-feira, 13 de agosto de 2009

The U.S. economy has made a bottom

The U.S. economy has made a bottom: "From the David Horsey collection at the Seattle Post Intelligencer.

Today's retail sales figures kind of back up this assessment of the U.S. economy.


How To Make A WiFi Antenna Out of A Pringles Can

How To Make A WiFi Antenna Out of A Pringles Can: "

Wi-Fi has completely changed the way we browse the net and use the internet in our day to day life. The complete comfort of accessing internet at better speeds is achieved through Wi-Fi networks.

This article explains how to make a WiFi antenna out of a Pringles can, which you can use to boost your Wi-Fi network speeds.

Here is the procedure :

What is Cantenna?

In order to boost your Wi-Fi internet network speed, you need to make an arrangement and fix it on the roof of your home. This equipment is built with the help of tin cans and it acts like an antenna. Thus, it is called a ‘Can’tenna.

Here are a few advantages that you can get by installing a cantenna on your roof top.

  • As it acts like an extra antenna, the range of your Wi-Fi network also increases, thus enabling more data transfer speeds and more mobility.

  • It is proven that cantennas have more gain than the normal commercial antennas.

  • Automatically detects Wi-Fi hot spots.

  • Building one such antenna is really cheap and affordable.

A cantenna is very much essential if you love mobility. Arranging a cantenna helps you to connect to the internet on your PC, laptop or Wi-Fi-enabled mobile handsets without the need for any wires. The speed at which you can access the internet is also reliable. You can play online role-playing games which would otherwise not be possible on any other modes of wireless connectivity options like GPRS.

To add up spice, building your own antenna with the helps of wires and getting connected to the internet will increase your reputation among your group of friends and you can enjoy the privilege of getting called a geek.

How to Make a WiFi Antenna: Components needed!

Don’t get too excited and be sure that you get all the components mentioned below before starting to build one. Constructing a Cantenna is very easy provided you have all the required material with you ready. Get the following components before you start.

  • Empty Pringles potato chips can.

  • The N-type female connector

  • The N-type connector from the back

  • RP-SMA male connector components

The above components can be obtained from any electronics spare parts shop or a radio repair shop.  You also require the following components:

  • A wire cutter

  • A small drill to make a hole or two.

  • A solder and simple skills to efficiently make the soldering.


Follow the steps that are illustrated below, which do not take you more than 30 minutes.

  • After consuming all the chips, rinse the empty tin with water and dry it clean.

how to make a wifi antenna

From the bottom side of the empty tin, measure the length of 3 3/8 inches and carefully drill a small hole such that the N type female connector can get in.

  • Solder one end of the RG cable to the N type female connector. Here we will learn to make the special cable called a pig-tail.

how to make a wifi antenna

RG cable is a co-axial cable and the inner material is a conductor. This has to be inserted to the protruding metal whereas the protective shield (insulating material) has to be soldered to the body.

The other end of the RG cable has to be soldered to the SMA male connector. The small male pin has to be soldered to the inner conductor of the cable and then it is carefully inserted through the hole of the connector.

That is the end of the construction of the pig-tail.

  • Solder gauge 12 copper wire of sufficient length to the N type connector.

homemade wifi antenna

  • Place the entire assembly on the tin can. The SMA connector has to be arranged in such a way that it passes through the top hole of the tin. The resulting structure can be seen in the image below.

how to build wifi antenna

  • This arrangement should be dropped down inside until the center along the length of the can. Carefully pull the extra cable and cut it off.

  • You can fix the arrangement tight with the help of a few screws if needed. Put back the cable. Now, the reflector is ready.

  • Fix a nut to the one end of the metal rod and hold the rod in such a way that the nut points the ground down.

  • As shown in the picture, arrange a lid and slide it down along the rod until it touches the nut. Also, drop in 3 washers to the middle of the rod. In case the diameter of the washers is larger than the inner rod, then take 4 other pieces of hollow rod and arrange them one after the another with the washers in between. This way, the washers get arranged well as shown below.

homemade wifi antenna

how to build wifi antenna

Now, along with two other washers, insert a hollow insulating material. Even a thin plastic material is sufficient for this.

  • Now, it can be easily mounted.  Close the lid of the chips can back with the rod hanging inside. Precaution has to be taken to see that the inner rod does not touch the walls of the copper filament that was previously soldered to the N-type connector.

  • Congratulations! Your new Wi-Fi antenna is ready to get tested.

Desktop users with an external WLAN card can start finding the new method working for them with no other hassle. But on a laptop that has an inbuilt Wi-Fi system?

You need to do a little more hacks to enjoy the new power of the existing Wi-Fi network on your laptop. On the lower side of the laptop, you can find a small cover. Open it and replace the existing cables with your own. But be sure and think twice about what you are doing because you may void the warranty.

Process of testing:

The antenna that you have made is called a Yagi antenna. These are highly directional and have very high gain. Due to their high directional properties, they also have high range. Now, to set up the connection and start using the internet, aim slightly to the left or right of the receiver of your neighbor and carefully adjust your antenna by rotating it slightly to receive the best gain.

If the antenna is left out in the open sky, then you need to take care of its protection from the weather. Place the arrangement in a PVC pipe so that it doesn’t get rusted.

Have you managed to build an antenna like this? Do you have other techniques on how to make a WiFi antenna?   Having trouble making your own?   Leave a comment and we’ll try and help you out.

Did you like the post? Please do share your thoughts in the comments section!

New on MakeUseOf ? Get cheat sheets and cool PDF guides @ www.makeuseof.com/makeuseof-downloads/

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Digsby Joins the Dark Side, Uses Your PC to Make Money [Rants]

Digsby Joins the Dark Side, Uses Your PC to Make Money [Rants]: "

The popular Digsby instant messenger client not only bundles half a dozen 'optional' crapware applications, it's also using your computer to crawl the web, do stock market research, and more. It's time to uninstall.

Bundling Crapware is a Despicable Business Model

Many popular freeware applications bundle crapware into their setup files, prompting you during the installation process to install something that nobody wants—like the Yahoo/Ask.com/SomeRandomCompany browser toolbar. Tech-savvy users may consider this nothing more than an annoyance, but this practice preys on unsuspecting or less knowledgeable users that click "Next" through every setup screen, and the makers of any software that do this should be ashamed of themselves.

Digsby takes bundled crapware to a whole different level, however. During the install you are prompted for not one, not two, but six different pieces of junk software, and then for good measure they offer to replace your home page with something terrible and take your search engine down a notch.

Don't think it's all that bad? Here's an example of one of the bundled crapware applications—a piece of software that tracks everything you are searching online and shows you "offers" in a sidebar window. Does that really sound like something anybody anywhere would ever want?

It Gets Even Worse: Your PC is Being Used Without Your Knowledge

You can debate the merits of bundled crapware, and brush away the despicable nature of preying on those lacking adequate tech skills, but did you realize that Digsby is also using your processor to make money?

That's right. Buried in the Terms of Service that almost nobody ever bothers reading, there's this exploiting-the-fine-print gem explaining that they will use your CPU to run distributed computing problems that make them money:

You agree to permit the Software to use the processing power of your computer when it is idle to run downloaded algorithms (mathematical equations) and code within a process. You understand that when the Software uses your computer, it likewise uses your CPU, bandwidth, and electrical power. The Software will use your computer to solve distributed computing problems, such as but not limited to, accelerating medical research projects, analyzing the stock market, searching the web, and finding the largest known prime number. This functionality is completely optional and you may disable it at any time.

Hold everything! They are going to use my computer for 'searching the web' without explicitly asking for my permission? What exactly are they indexing, and how do I know they aren't accessing something illegal with my computer? Why are they trying to hide this in the first place?

To be fair, they do give you a way to disable this absurd nonsense—though they bury the setting behind a "Support Digsby" item on the menu, with no clear description on exactly what they are doing with it. It's clear they are abusing their users, but since they technically explain it in the TOS and let you disable the feature, they weasel out of any responsibility.

Think it's just paranoia? This has been reported, on the Digsby forummore than a few times, and in fact was announced on the Digsby blog as an official way they are going to make some money, with Plura Processing as a partner. The Plura Processing blog confirms that they are, in fact, crawling the web using your computer:

Custom Web Crawling – 80legs is using Plura to do distributed web crawling.  Rather than having data centers with very fat pipes, they use a portion of the bandwidth of the Plura nodes to crawl the web.  In order to improve the success ratio for each work unit, 80legs sends out Plura WUs with very few URLs to crawl.

This isn't just some language buried in the TOS. It's a sneaky way they are planning on making money from people without explicitly asking them first. If you really want to be paranoid, consider that these people have the credentials to all your online accounts.

Just Need to Pay the Bills? Give Me a Break!

While there's no way to tell exactly how much money Digsby is making from the sneaky use of your computer and abusing the less knowledgeable with loads of crapware, there is one disturbing fact that you should consider: They are paying up to $1 for every new user that you refer to them through their affiliate program. If they can pay that much money for every new user, they aren't just paying the bills anymore.

What do I get paid for?
You get paid for every new user that installs Digsby.
How much do I get paid?
You get paid up to $1.00 for every new user that installs Digsby. The amount varies depending on the geographic location of the person installing Digsby.

The Guise of Ad-Free Doesn't Get You Off the Hook

Digsby and other subtle-but-shady software makers excuse themselves from their crapware-bundling behavior by saying that this model enables them to provide the product free of charge, and free of ads.

Except in this case, that argument is completely bogus. Digsby sends out 'Announcements' containing ads or, in at least one case, requests for you to vote in a poll of the five best instant messenger clients. As far as I can tell, there's no way to switch off this behavior, and while they might not be abusing it too badly right now, if they are willing to try and sneakily use your computer, you can bet it's not going to stop.

Summary: Stick with Open Source

The only way you are definitely going to avoid greedy software developers exploiting you is to stick with open source, make sure to donate to your favorite open source projects, and stop installing software with bundled crapware.

It's time to end the reign of bundled crapware. Uninstall Digsby.

Note: Every now and then, we like to go on grumpy, long-winded, opinionated rants. We're not necessarily the definitive voice, and your feelings may differ, so feel free to air your thoughts in the comments.


Melhora de Alemanha e França freia retração econômica na UE

Melhora de Alemanha e França freia retração econômica na UE: "Bruxelas, 13 ago (EFE).- A economia europeia freou sua retração no segundo trimestre do ano, quando o Produto Interno Bruto (PIB) caiu apenas 0,1% nos países do euro e 0,3% no bloco inteiro, graças principalmente à retomada do crescimento em Alemanha e França.Segundo os primeiros números divulgados hoje, tanto a economia alemã como a francesa puseram fim entre abril e junho a quatro trimestres consecutivos de contração, com avanços de 0,3%.

Como consequência, acabou moderada a deterioração da atividade tanto na zona do euro como na UE, com recuos de 0,1% e 0,3%, muito abaixo das quedas de 2,5% e 2,4%, respectivamente, registradas nos três primeiros meses do ano.

Os números, divulgados hoje pelo Eurostat, o escritório estatístico do bloco, indicam que a recessão pode ter chegado ao fundo do poço na Europa no primeiro trimestre e que a economia já estaria iniciando uma recuperação.

Segundo o Eurostat, além de Alemanha e França, só Grécia, Portugal e Eslováquia mostraram avanços no PIB no segundo trimestre.

A Alemanha, maior economia da UE, passou de um recuo de 3,5% nos três primeiros meses à expansão, da mesma forma que a França, que havia constatado retração no mesmo período de 1,3%.

Se comparada com o segundo trimestre de 2008, a economia na zona de moeda única se contraiu de abril a junho 4,6% e 4,8% em toda a UE, contra recuos de 4,9% e 4,7%, respectivamente, registrados entre janeiro e março.

Todos os países com dados disponíveis tiveram queda no PIB em termos anualizados.

Na Alemanha a retração foi de 5,9% e na França de 2,6%. A economia britânica recuou 5,6% e a italiana, 6%.

Os três países bálticos, especialmente a Lituânia, onde a atividade caiu em termos anualizados 22,6%, são os membros da EU com a pior evolução econômica dos últimos meses. EFE epn/rr"

quarta-feira, 12 de agosto de 2009

Two Free Videos (and a Special Offer) for Bloggers and Twitter Users

Two Free Videos (and a Special Offer) for Bloggers and Twitter Users: "

Today two videos were released that involved me and that I think would be of interest to readers.

video-1.png1. Video interview with Gideon Shalwick - in this video Gideon interviewed me on a range of aspects of blogging.

In the video I talk a little about how I got started but the rest of the interview is packed with a range of tips on how to improve a blog.

The interview goes for just over 33 minutes and includes a special bonus offer that Gideon is giving for anyone who buys my 31 Days to Build a Better Blog Workbook through his affiliate link.

video-2.png2. Twitter Tips for Businesses (and Individuals) - this video is me talking to a set of slides/presentation that I’ve been giving lately at conferences and internally for a number of businesses.

The video goes for around 40 minutes and while it was developed for businesses wanting to get started with Twitter it covers a lot of tips that I think would be relevant to bloggers and individuals with other agendas. The first section covers how I find Twitter benefits my blogging but moves on to a lot of more practical tips on how to use Twitter Effectively.

In total these videos give you over an hour of content - I hope you enjoy them!

Post from: Blog Tips at ProBlogger.


Two Free Videos (and a Special Offer) for Bloggers and Twitter Users

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